In my years turning wrenches, I’ve seen P0018 trip up plenty of folks. What it means is your engine’s computer has caught the crankshaft and the intake camshaft on bank 2 out of sync-basically, they’re not lined up the way they should be. ‘Sensor A’ in the code is just the intake camshaft, by the way. Your car’s computer relies on both the crank and cam sensors to keep the valve timing precise. When the two aren’t matching up-sometimes just a few degrees off-the computer throws up a red flag to let you know something’s off. And that’s a big deal, because valve timing dictates how well the engine breathes and runs. If you’re wondering why this matters, it’s because mistimed valves can wreck your power, fuel economy, and even do real damage if left alone. On a lot of GM engines, for example, just a 9-degree difference is enough to set this code. So, if you see P0018, you know your timing system needs attention pronto.
DTC P0018
Causes and P0018
From experience, I can tell you that p0018 can be triggered by a handful of common issues. Most often, it’s something to do with the timing system or oil quality. Here’s what I see most frequently:
- Camshaft variable timing solenoid failure (these control oil flow to the camshaft actuator)
- Low engine oil level (not enough oil can mess with timing)
- Incorrect engine oil type or dirty oil (wrong oil can cause timing parts to stick or not work right)
- Variable valve timing actuator failure (this part actually moves the camshaft for better performance)
- Worn timing chain or stretched chain (this throws off the whole timing relationship)
- Failed timing chain tensioner or guides (these keep the chain tight and in place)
- Damaged or shifted crankshaft reluctor wheel (this is what the sensor reads for crankshaft position)
In cases like this, it’s usually a good idea to start with the basics-oil level and condition-before jumping to more complex parts.
Symptoms and dtc P0018
When dtc p0018 pops up, you’ll probably notice your car just isn’t running right. Here’s what drivers usually tell me they’re experiencing:
- Check engine light is on (that’s usually the first sign)
- Decreased engine performance-feels sluggish or down on power
- Hard starting or even no start at all
- Stalling, sometimes while driving
- Rough running, hesitation, or the engine just feels off
- Rattling or odd noises from the engine, especially on startup
- Worse fuel economy than usual
If you notice any of these, especially if the engine is running rough or making noises, don’t ignore it. Things can go south quickly if overlooked.

Diagnosis and P0018 trouble code
Let me walk you through how I tackle a P0018 trouble code-it’s all about starting simple and working your way deeper only as needed:
- Step one: pop the hood and check your engine oil-both the level and the look of it. Low, dirty, or wrong-grade oil can throw your timing off faster than most folks realize.
- Next up, grab a scan tool and confirm the code. While you’re at it, see if there are any companion codes like P0016, P0017, or P0019 hanging around. These can give you more clues.
- I like to peek at live data from the cam and crank sensors. If the numbers don’t add up, you might be dealing with a sensor issue or actual timing trouble.
- Now, don’t overlook the wiring. I’ve lost count how many times a corroded connector or a chafed wire was the real culprit. Give every plug and wire a good once-over.
- If all that checks out, move on to the camshaft variable timing solenoid and actuator. Sometimes pulling the solenoid and finding it packed with sludge tells the whole story.
- If the solenoid looks good, it’s time to get your hands dirty with the timing chain, tensioner, and guides. That means pulling covers and visually checking for slack, broken bits, or a tensioner that’s given up the ghost.
- As a last resort, check the crankshaft reluctor wheel. I don’t see these shift or get damaged too often, but when they do, the headaches are real-especially if someone’s done engine work and didn’t line things up right.
Trust me, having a buddy help when you’re turning the engine by hand makes lining up timing marks a whole lot easier.

Common Mistakes and P0018 code
I see plenty of folks make the same slip-ups when chasing down P0018. The most classic mistake? Swapping out sensors right off the bat without checking the simple stuff. Here’s where people usually trip up:
- Forgetting to check or change the oil-either letting it run low or dumping in the wrong type
- Jumping straight to replacing cam or crank sensors, while the real trouble is lurking in the timing chain or actuator
- Skipping a close look at wiring and connectors for corrosion or damage
- Missing out on Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) that might spell out known problems for your ride
- Assuming it’s just a sensor, when it’s actually something like a stretched timing chain or a failed tensioner causing the mess
Here’s a bit of shop wisdom: Always rule out the basics before you go after the complicated stuff. You’ll save yourself headaches and cash in the long run.

Seriousness and obd code P0018
Let me be straight with you: obd p0018 is not the kind of code you want to brush off. Drive with this one for too long and you’re flirting with major engine carnage. I’ve seen timing chains skip teeth or even snap, which can leave you with bent valves, smashed pistons, or a completely trashed motor. It’s not just about the car running rough-this can leave you stranded or even cause a dangerous stall in traffic. When this code shows up, the clock is ticking. The timing chain, tensioner, guides, camshaft, valves, pistons, and sometimes even the crankshaft can all be on the chopping block if you ignore the warning.
Repair and obd2 code P0018
When it comes to fixing obd p0018, here’s the rundown based on what I’ve done in the shop and what most OEMs suggest:
- First things first-do an oil and filter change, making absolutely sure you’re using the right oil for your engine
- If the camshaft variable timing solenoid or actuator is acting up or sticking, swap it out for a new one
- Repair or replace any busted wiring or sketchy connectors for the cam or crank sensors
- If the timing chain’s stretched or worn, it’s time for a replacement-and never skip checking the tensioner and guides while you’re in there
- On the rare occasion the crankshaft reluctor wheel is damaged or has moved, replace it
- Once you’ve made your fix, clear the code and take the car for a spin to make sure you’ve nailed the problem
Here’s a pro-tip from the garage: Stick to your vehicle’s oil change intervals and always pour in the exact oil type the manual calls for. It’s the best way I know to dodge this headache in the future.
Conclusion
Bottom line? P0018 says your engine’s timing is out of whack between the crankshaft and camshaft on bank 2. Ignore it and you’re rolling the dice on some very costly repairs. The smartest move is to check the oil first, then work your way through sensors, solenoids, and finally the timing chain and related parts. If you’re not comfortable digging into timing systems, don’t be afraid to get a seasoned pro to help. Move fast-waiting around can turn a small repair into a wallet-buster.




