Let me break down what P0037 means for you: this code is all about the heated oxygen sensor, specifically the one that sits behind your catalytic converter (that’s Bank 1, Sensor 2). This sensor’s job is to help your car’s computer (the PCM) figure out how well the catalytic converter is working. To do its job right, the sensor needs to heat up quickly, so it has a built-in heater. When the PCM notices that the heater circuit for this sensor isn’t working like it should-maybe it’s not drawing enough current or the circuit is open-it throws the P0037 code. In short, this code is telling us there’s a problem with the heater part of the rear oxygen sensor, which can affect how your car monitors emissions and, in some cases, fuel efficiency.
DTC P0037
Common Causes of P0037
From what I see most often in the shop, there are a few usual suspects when it comes to p0037:
- A faulty downstream oxygen sensor itself-the heating element inside can burn out or fail over time.
- Problems with the wiring or connectors going to the sensor-things like frayed wires, corrosion, or loose plugs are common, especially under the car where they’re exposed to the elements.
- An issue with the PCM’s heater control circuit-less common, but sometimes the computer side of things can fail.
In cases like this, it’s usually the sensor or the wiring, but I always check everything to be sure.
Symptoms Indicating a P0037 Engine Code
When this code pops up, here’s what you’re likely to notice:
- The Check Engine Light will come on-sometimes that’s the only clue you’ll get.
- If you go for an emissions test, your car will fail automatically with this code stored.
Most of the time, you won’t feel any difference in how the car drives. But if you ignore it for too long, you could start to see things like poor fuel economy or even rough running, especially if other issues crop up.

Diagnosis Steps for OBD2 Code P0037
Here’s how I like to tackle a p0037, step by step:
- First, I always start with a visual inspection. Pop the hood and get under the car to check the wiring and connector for the rear oxygen sensor. Look for any obvious damage-broken wires, melted insulation, or loose plugs. Sometimes rodents chew on these wires, so don’t overlook that.
- Next, I’ll unplug the sensor and check for corrosion or bent pins in the connector. Cleaning or reseating the connector can sometimes fix the issue right away.
- After that, I use a multimeter to check the resistance of the heater circuit inside the sensor. Most OEM specs call for a certain resistance range (usually between 5-20 ohms, but check your manual). If it’s way off, the sensor’s heater is likely bad.
- If the sensor checks out, I move on to checking for power and ground at the connector with the ignition on. No power? Then I trace the wiring back to the PCM, looking for breaks or shorts.
- Finally, if all the wiring and the sensor are good, I consider the possibility of a PCM issue, but that’s rare. It’s best to rule out everything else first.
It’s better to have someone assist you when you’re under the car, and always make sure the engine is cool before you start poking around the exhaust area.

Common Mistakes When Resolving a P0037 Trouble Code
One thing I see a lot is folks replacing the oxygen sensor right away without checking the wiring or connector first. That’s a surefire way to waste money if the real issue is just a loose or corroded connection. Another common misstep is not checking the fuse for the heater circuit-sometimes it’s as simple as a blown fuse. Don’t forget to check the basics before moving on to the expensive parts.

How Serious is a DTC P0037?
Honestly, this isn’t something you want to ignore. While your car might seem to run fine for now, driving around with a faulty sensor heater means your emissions system isn’t working as designed. That can lead to failing an emissions test, wasting fuel, and in some cases, damaging the catalytic converter over time if the engine starts running too rich. Things can go south quickly if you overlook it, and the risks just aren’t worth it.
Repair Solutions for OBD Code P0037
Here’s what I usually do to fix a dtc p0037 toyota, toyota dtc p0037, nissan dtc p0037 situation (this error can also happen on other car brands like Ford, Renault):
- If the sensor’s heater is bad, replace the downstream oxygen sensor with a quality OEM or equivalent part.
- If the wiring or connector is damaged, repair or replace the affected section-make sure all connections are clean and tight.
- If a fuse is blown, replace it, but also check for the reason it blew in the first place.
- In rare cases, if the PCM’s heater control circuit is faulty, the PCM may need repair or replacement, but that’s the last resort.
After any repair, I always clear the code and take the car for a test drive to make sure it doesn’t come back.
Conclusion
To sum it up, P0037 points to a problem with the heater circuit for your rear oxygen sensor. It’s not something to put off-acting quickly can save you from bigger headaches down the road, like failed emissions or even catalytic converter damage. The most reliable way to fix it is to start with a thorough inspection of the sensor, wiring, and connectors, then replace the sensor if needed. Don’t skip the simple checks, and you’ll be back on the road with peace of mind in no time.




