Let me lay it out for you in shop talk: when you see p0230 pop up, you're dealing with a “Fuel Pump Primary Circuit” issue. Over the years, I've seen this code more times than I care to count. What it really means is your car’s computer-the PCM-is keeping tabs on the electrical pathway that powers your fuel pump. That pump’s got one job: pull fuel from the tank and push it up to the engine, and believe me, without it, you’re not going anywhere. The PCM uses a relay (think of it like a remote-controlled switch) to get the pump running. If the computer notices anything odd with the voltage or the signals in that circuit, you’ll get the p0230 code and that dreaded check engine light. On some late-model rides, there’s an extra layer: a fuel pump control module, but the story’s the same. The computer’s watching for anything off-kilter in the wires or controls for the pump. Bottom line: this code’s about making sure your fuel pump’s properly juiced up, so your engine doesn’t go thirsty.
DTC P0230
Causes of P0230
From my time under the hood, I can tell you there are a few usual suspects when dtc p0230 shows up. Nine times out of ten, it’s one of these:
- Bad fuel pump-sometimes the pump itself just gives up the ghost.
- Fuel pump relay on the fritz-the relay might be cooked or just sticking.
- Wiring gremlins-broken wires, crusty connectors, or short circuits plague this system more often than folks realize. I’ve pulled out harnesses that looked like spaghetti after a mouse got in there.
- PCM acting up-rare, but I’ve seen a handful of cases where the computer itself was the issue, either from hardware failure or a buggy software update.
Usually, it’s either the relay or a wiring issue. But don’t count out the pump-when they start to go, it’s often right out of nowhere. My advice? Start simple before you tear half the car apart.
dtc P0230 Symptoms
If dtc p0230 is lurking in your system, here’s what you’ll probably notice from behind the wheel:
- Check engine light-yep, that’s your first clue.
- Sluggish engine-sometimes you’ll feel it bog down, hesitate, or just act lazy on acceleration.
- No-start-turn the key and all you get is cranking, no fire. Frustrating, isn’t it?
- Fuel pump silence-you know that soft hum from the tank when you first turn the ignition? If it’s missing or running non-stop, something’s up.
If your ride won’t start or feels rough, keep p0230 on your radar. These symptoms aren’t ones to shrug off.

P0230 engine code Diagnosis
Here’s how I’d chase down a dtc p0230 peugeot, step-by-step, just like I do in the shop:
- Start with the basics-battery’s gotta be charged, connections clean and tight. You’d be surprised how many weird electrical issues start with a weak battery.
- Listen for the fuel pump. When you flip the key to “on,” can you hear it whirring? No sound means you’re onto something.
- Check the relay next. I’ll swap it with another same-style relay from the fuse box. Sometimes it’s as simple as a $10 part. And don’t forget to peek at the socket-corrosion or bent pins can ruin your day.
- Now, get your eyes on the wiring and connectors running from the PCM to the relay and out to the pump. I’ve seen wires pinched, melted, or chewed. Grab a buddy to wiggle the harness while you watch for changes in operation.
- Break out the multimeter or a test light. You want to see if voltage and ground are making it to the pump connector when the system’s supposed to be live.
- If you’ve got power but the pump won’t run, odds are the pump’s toast. If you find no power, trace the circuit back-relay, wiring, PCM-until you find the break.
- Only after all that do I even consider the PCM. In my experience, it’s almost never the computer, but don’t rule it out entirely.
Here’s a pro-tip from the garage: always check the fuel pump fuse up front. Saves a ton of headaches if that’s all it is.

P0230 trouble code Common Mistakes
A classic mistake I see is folks swapping out the fuel pump at the first sign of trouble, skipping the relay and wiring checks. That can get expensive fast, and sometimes all you needed was a relay or to clean up a connector. Another slip-up? Forgetting to check for a blown fuse or not confirming voltage at the pump before buying parts. Skipping these basics means you’re chasing your tail. And don’t just clear the code thinking it’ll fix itself-track down the real culprit.

obd2 code P0230 Seriousness
Let me be straight with you-this is a big deal. If your fuel pump isn’t getting power, you could end up stalled in the middle of traffic, and that’s not a spot anyone wants to be in. Worse yet, if the pump keeps running when it shouldn’t, it might overheat, fry its own wiring, or even take out the PCM. I’ve seen burnt harnesses and melted relays when folks ignored the warning signs. Don’t let this linger-get on it before you’re paying for a tow and a bigger repair.
P0230 code Repair
Here’s how I’d tackle a p0230 code, based on what’s worked best for me over the years:
- Swap out a faulty fuel pump relay, especially if it’s hot to the touch or shows burned marks.
- Chase down and fix any sketchy wiring or connectors you find in the circuit-don’t settle for half-measures here.
- If the pump isn’t running and you’ve got good voltage and ground, it’s time for a new pump.
- PCM updates or reprogramming are rare, but check for service bulletins-sometimes the factory has a fix.
- Only replace the PCM if every other piece checks out and you’re sure it’s the root of the problem.
Always use your repair manual for your specific make and model-the wiring diagrams can differ a lot. Double-check everything before you button it up.
Conclusion
Bottom line: p0230 points to a problem somewhere in the fuel pump’s main electrical circuit. Nine times out of ten, it’s a relay, wiring issue, or the pump itself. This isn’t something you want to put off, because it can leave you stranded or put you in a risky spot on the road. Your best bet is to start with the simple stuff-fuses, relays, wiring-before moving onto the fuel pump or PCM. Take it step-by-step and don’t rush; that’s how you get your car back on the road, safe and sound.
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