When you see that P042F code pop up, your car’s computer-what we in the trade call the PCM-has caught something off with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve control system. Let me break it down: the EGR setup is there to help your engine burn cleaner. It recirculates some exhaust gases back into the engine, cutting down those nasty nitrogen oxides (NOx). The magic happens via an electronically-controlled EGR valve, which opens and shuts depending on what your engine needs. But with P042F, what’s really going on is the PCM’s noticed the EGR valve is stuck closed and refusing to budge. In my days working on everything from Fords and Chevys to BMWs and Mercedes, I’ve seen this code on just about any make. Your car uses a stack of sensors-think throttle position, vehicle speed, crankshaft position-to decide exactly when to command the EGR valve. If the valve’s real-world position doesn’t match what the computer’s asking for, you get P042F. Simple in theory, but plenty can trip it up.
DTC P042F
Causes of P042F code
From experience, the most common reasons I see for a p042f code are:
- A faulty EGR valve itself-this is the usual suspect, especially if it’s stuck due to carbon buildup or internal failure.
- A bad EGR solenoid or actuator-sometimes the electronic part that moves the valve gives up.
- Wiring or connector issues-broken, corroded, or shorted wires in the EGR control circuit can cause all sorts of trouble.
- A failed DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback EGR) sensor-this sensor helps the computer know what the EGR valve is doing.
- A malfunctioning EGR valve position sensor-if this sensor isn’t reporting correctly, the PCM gets confused.
- Rarely, a problem with the PCM itself or its programming-this is pretty uncommon, but I’ve seen it happen.
Symptoms of P042F trouble code
Honestly, with dtc p042f bmw, most folks don’t notice much wrong with how their car drives. Usually, there aren’t any obvious symptoms, but you might see:
- The check engine light comes on-sometimes that’s the only sign.
- Slightly reduced fuel efficiency-maybe a little more gas used than normal, but nothing dramatic.
Most of the time, you won’t feel any difference in performance or drivability.

Diagnosis steps for obd code P042F
Here’s how I usually tackle a dtc p042f:
- Start with a visual inspection. I always check the wiring and connectors around the EGR valve for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. It’s amazing how often a simple wiring issue is the culprit.
- If everything looks good, I hook up a scan tool and pull any stored codes and freeze frame data. This info can help if the problem is intermittent.
- Next, I clear the codes and take the car for a test drive to see if the code comes back. If it does, I use the scan tool to watch the EGR valve’s desired position versus its actual position. They should match up closely-if not, that’s a big clue.
- I also check the DPFE and MAP sensor readings if the car uses them. If there are codes for these sensors, they might be related to the EGR problem.
- If the valve’s actual position isn’t matching the desired position, I follow the manufacturer’s steps to test the EGR solenoids and sensors using a digital volt/ohmmeter. Sometimes the EGR system uses multiple solenoids, so each one needs to be checked.
- If the DPFE sensor is part of the system, I test it according to the OEM procedure. Pinout diagrams and wiring schematics are a big help here.
- If I find a bad sensor or solenoid, I replace it and retest the system. If the wiring checks out and the sensors are good, but the problem remains, I consider the EGR valve itself or, very rarely, the PCM.
- After repairs, I always make sure the PCM completes its readiness checks before calling it fixed.
It’s better to have someone assist you if you’re not comfortable with electrical testing, and don’t forget to double-check all connections before moving on.

Common Mistakes when fixing P042F engine code
In cases like this, I’ve seen people jump straight to replacing the EGR valve without checking the wiring or sensors first. That’s a surefire way to waste money. Another common mistake is ignoring related sensor codes (like DPFE or MAP) that could be pointing right at the real problem. Skipping the visual inspection or not using a scan tool to compare desired and actual EGR positions can also lead you down the wrong path. Always start with the basics before replacing parts.

How serious is P042F
While this code doesn’t usually cause major drivability issues, it’s not something you want to ignore forever. The risks just aren’t worth it. If the EGR valve stays closed, your engine could end up producing more emissions, and over time, that can lead to failed emissions tests or even damage to other components like the catalytic converter. Things can go south quickly if you let carbon build up in the EGR passages. Don’t put this off for later-address it as soon as you can to avoid bigger headaches down the road.
Repair options for obd2 code P042F
Here’s what I typically do to fix a p042f:
- Repair or replace any damaged wiring or connectors in the EGR circuit.
- Clean or replace the EGR valve if it’s stuck or clogged with carbon.
- Replace a faulty EGR solenoid, actuator, or position sensor as needed.
- If the DPFE sensor is bad, swap it out for a new one.
- In rare cases, update or reprogram the PCM if there’s a known software issue.
After repairs, I always clear the codes and drive the vehicle to make sure the fix holds.
Conclusion
To sum it up, P042F means your EGR valve is stuck closed, which can lead to higher emissions and, over time, possible damage to your emissions system. It’s not an emergency, but it’s best not to wait-get it checked out soon. The most reliable way to resolve this is to start with a careful inspection of the wiring and sensors, then move on to the EGR valve itself. Don’t skip steps, and you’ll save yourself time, money, and hassle in the long run.




