P2035 is one of those codes that immediately tells me there’s an issue with the exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit-specifically, it’s the second sensor on bank 2. This little sensor plays a crucial role: it’s constantly monitoring how hot your exhaust gases are getting, especially right before those gases hit the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC) or the diesel particulate filter (DPF). The sensor feeds those temperature readings to your vehicle’s computer, which then decides how to manage emissions and safeguard expensive exhaust parts. If those readings start looking strange, or if the wiring isn’t behaving, your car’s computer will trigger this code to warn you. While the job of the sensor is basically the same whether you’re working on a Chevrolet, Ford, GMC, or Mercedes-Benz, the exact spot you’ll find it and the wiring details can shift depending on brand and engine layout. Always double-check the diagram for your specific model before you start pulling things apart.
DTC P2035
5643
6 minutes of readingCauses of P2035 code
From years in the shop, I can tell you the causes behind a p2035 are pretty predictable. Here’s what I usually uncover when chasing down this code:
- The exhaust gas temperature sensor itself (bank 2, sensor 2) has failed-hands down, this tops the list.
- Wiring problems, like a broken, shorted, or open circuit in the harness running to the sensor, are next in line.
- Bad electrical connections-think bent, corroded, or loose connector pins. These can be sneaky.
- Exhaust leaks in the area where the sensor sits. Even a small leak can throw off the sensor’s readings.
- A good layer of soot or particulate buildup clogging up the sensor and messing with its accuracy.
Every once in a blue moon, I’ll see it traced back to a glitchy engine control module, but in reality, that’s a last-resort diagnosis. Nine times out of ten, the problem is much more basic.
Symptoms of P2035
When a vehicle throws a P2035, the first thing most drivers spot is the check engine or service engine light glaring at them from the dash. That’s usually it-just the light. But if you let it slide, especially on diesel trucks, you might find yourself stuck in limp mode with the engine refusing to give you full power. Sometimes, it messes up the regeneration of the emissions system, or you’ll spot more smoke than usual coming out of the tailpipe. Still, for the average driver, the warning light is the giveaway-until the problem gets worse.
Diagnosis steps for P2035 engine code
When I’m tracking down a p2035, here’s the approach that’s served me well:
- Start with a good, old-fashioned visual inspection. Pop the hood and check out the wiring and the connector on the exhaust gas temperature sensor (bank 2, sensor 2). Look for melted insulation, loose connections, or any hint of corrosion.
- If nothing jumps out, unplug the sensor and get a close look at the pins inside the connector. Are they bent, pushed out, or turning green with corrosion? Sometimes, having someone else wiggle the harness while you watch can reveal hidden faults.
- Whip out a multimeter and check for continuity in the wiring from the sensor back to the engine computer. If you spot an open or a short here, you’ve likely found your issue.
- If the wiring’s solid, it’s time to test the sensor itself. Most factory manuals give you a resistance range for the sensor at room temperature. If the numbers are way off, you’re probably looking at a bad sensor.
- Don’t overlook the exhaust itself-check for leaks close to the sensor, because even a pinhole can throw the readings.
- If the sensor is caked with soot or grime, give it a careful cleaning, then clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, it’s likely time for a new sensor.
Always start with the basics-wiring and connectors-before you shell out for a new sensor. It’ll save you time and cash.
Common Mistakes when fixing P2035 trouble code
A classic mistake I see is folks going straight for a sensor replacement without even glancing at the wiring or connectors. That’s a quick way to spend money you didn’t need to. Skipping over possible exhaust leaks is another pitfall-those can absolutely trick the sensor. And here’s a pro-tip: after any repair, always clear the code and see if it returns. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched people chase their tails because they never reset the light after a fix.
Seriousness of obd code P2035
Let me put it this way: you don’t want to ignore a P2035. While your car might keep running for a while, driving with a bad exhaust gas temperature sensor can set you up for some real trouble. If your vehicle’s computer doesn’t trust those temperature readings, it might skip protecting the DOC or DPF, which could lead to overheating or even permanent damage to those expensive parts. Sometimes, the system will play it safe and drop you into limp mode-suddenly you’re crawling along when you need power most. Bottom line? On modern diesels especially, things can get ugly fast if you drag your feet. Get it checked out before a small issue turns into a wallet-busting repair.
Repair solutions for dtc P2035
In the shop, these are the fixes that usually get a p2035 sorted out for good:
- Swap out the exhaust gas temperature sensor (bank 2, sensor 2) if it’s out of spec or not giving any reading.
- Fix or replace any wiring or connectors that look damaged or aren’t making a tight connection.
- If the sensor’s just filthy, clean off the soot or debris and see if that brings it back to life.
- Patch up any exhaust leaks near where the sensor lives, since those can really mess with accuracy.
- After any repair, clear the code and take the car or truck for a test drive. If the light stays off, you’re in the clear.
One more bit of advice-stick with OEM sensors when you can. Aftermarket options can be hit or miss and sometimes cause more headaches than they solve.
Conclusion
To wrap things up, P2035 means your exhaust gas temperature sensor (bank 2, sensor 2) isn’t doing its job, and that puts your emissions system at risk. You don’t want to let this one slide, because the longer you wait, the bigger-and more expensive-the problem can become. The smart move is to start by inspecting wiring and connectors, then check the sensor itself, and fix whatever you find. Most times, a new sensor or a wiring fix knocks this code out. Stay on top of it, and you’ll dodge bigger headaches while keeping your vehicle running clean and strong.
