P2299 is a code I’ve seen plenty of times over the years, and here’s what’s really going on: your car’s computer, the PCM, is keeping an eye on both the brake pedal and the accelerator pedal sensors. When it notices you’re pressing the brake but the accelerator pedal is still reading open-even just for a moment-it throws up a red flag. This isn’t just a random warning; it’s a built-in safety measure to make sure you’re not accidentally asking the car to speed up and slow down at the same time. On certain models, Dodge especially, I’ve noticed this code pop up if you press both pedals, or if one of the sensors starts acting up and sending a weird signal. Most of the time, the PCM responds by dialing back engine power, keeping things safe until you sort it out.
DTC P2299
5353
6 minutes of readingCauses and obd code P2299
From my experience in the shop, the most common reasons for a P2299 code are:
- Someone is pressing both the brake and accelerator pedals at the same time, either accidentally or as part of their driving style.
- The accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor is failing or sticking, causing the computer to think the pedal is still pressed when it’s not.
- The brake pedal position sensor is out of calibration or stuck, so it keeps telling the computer the brake is on even when it isn’t.
- Wiring issues-damaged or loose connectors between the pedals and the PCM can cause false readings.
I can’t tell you how often I’ve seen this code triggered by folks who rest a foot on the brake while accelerating, or when a sensor starts sticking or fails. Sometimes, a mechanical problem in the pedal assembly itself can keep that sensor in the wrong spot.
Symptoms and P2299 code
When this code pops up, here’s what you’ll probably notice:
- The check engine light kicks on-sometimes you’ll get a whole parade of warning lights.
- Your car may start to feel sluggish, with the engine holding back. You’ll step on the gas and the response just isn’t there.
- On certain vehicles, you might get a reduced power message or an electronic throttle control warning glaring at you from the dash.
What I’ve often found is that the check engine light is your first clue, but if you’re trying to accelerate and the car feels like it’s dragging its feet, that’s a dead giveaway something’s up with P2299.
Diagnosis and P2299 trouble code
If you want to nail down a P2299 code, here’s my go-to routine:
- I always ask the driver about their habits first-do they ever drive with a foot on each pedal? You’d be amazed how often that’s the culprit.
- Next, I scan for other codes, especially ABS or brake-related ones. Those need attention before you chase down P2299.
- With the car parked, I hook up the scan tool and watch live data from the accelerator and brake sensors. I press each pedal separately and watch for weird readings-if something jumps when it shouldn’t, or refuses to move, there’s your problem.
- Then, I get hands-on and check both pedal assemblies for anything sticky or binding. I’ve found everything from spilled drinks to worn bushings causing trouble.
- Wiring gets a close look too. Loose connectors or corrosion can make the PCM think the pedals are doing things they aren’t.
- If everything checks out mechanically and electrically, I’ll test the sensors against factory specs-sometimes they just wear out or slip out of calibration.
A pro-tip: have someone help press the pedals while you watch the scan tool readings. And don’t skip looking for recalls or technical bulletins about pedal sensors for your specific model-you might save yourself a lot of time.
Common Mistakes and P2299 engine code
A classic mistake I see is folks throwing new sensors at the problem without checking the simple stuff first. It’s easy to miss a stuck pedal, or overlook a loose wire. Another pitfall is ignoring how the car’s being driven-if someone’s got a habit of riding the brake, no sensor swap will fix that. Skipping the live data check from the scan tool is a big miss; real-time sensor readings are essential. And here’s something I can’t stress enough: sort out any ABS or brake codes before you go after P2299, otherwise you’re chasing your tail.
Seriousness and dtc P2299
If you’re wondering if this is urgent, let me be clear-don’t ignore it. When your computer sees pedal signals that don’t match up, it can cut engine power out of nowhere. That’s a real safety risk, especially if you’re merging onto the highway or trying to overtake. Plus, if there’s a sensor or wiring issue lurking, it can snowball and leave you stranded. In rare cases, letting this slide can mess with the electronic throttle or even fry the PCM. Trust me, you don’t want to gamble with this-get it checked before it gets worse.
Repair Tips and obd2 code P2299
Here’s my approach whenever I’m fixing a P2299 code:
- If the driver’s habits are the cause, a simple conversation and a code reset can do the trick.
- If I find a sensor stuck or out of calibration, I’ll swap it out or recalibrate the brake or accelerator pedal sensor as needed.
- Wiring problems? I repair or replace any damaged wires or connectors running between the pedals and the PCM.
- If the pedal assembly’s got a mechanical issue, I’ll clean or repair it so everything moves smooth as butter.
- Once the repairs are done, I always clear the code and take the car for a test drive to make sure it’s back to normal.
If you want lasting results, stick to OEM parts and follow the factory procedures-cutting corners here just means the problem will come back.
Conclusion
So, what’s the takeaway? P2299 means your car’s computer is catching pedal signals that don’t add up, and it’s stepping in to keep you safe by cutting engine power. You shouldn’t put this off-it’s a moderate-to-high priority issue that can mess with your ability to drive safely. The best way to sort it is to start with the basics: check how you’re using the pedals, inspect the sensors and wiring, and make sure everything’s calibrated right. If you jump on it early and follow these steps, you’ll be back behind the wheel with full power and zero worries.
