DTC P0137

07.10.2025
Author:Ihor Koziar. Reviewed by:Lisa Morgan
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P0137

Vehicle engine and/or automatic transmission
Code: P0137 - The oxygen (O2) sensor after the catalytic converter on engine side 1 is sending a low voltage signal, indicating possible sensor or wiring issue.

Let me break down what code P0137 means for your vehicle. This code stands for “Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2).” In plain English, your car’s computer (the PCM) is telling us that the oxygen sensor located after the catalytic converter-on the same side as cylinder #1-has been reading a voltage lower than it should for a certain period of time. This downstream sensor’s main job is to monitor how well the catalytic converter is working by checking the oxygen levels in your exhaust. When it’s working right, it should show a fairly steady voltage. If it drops too low, the PCM flags it with this code. This system is crucial for keeping your emissions in check and making sure your engine runs efficiently.

Common Causes of obd2 code P0137

From my years in the bay, I’ve seen a few usual suspects trigger a p0137 code. Nine times out of ten, here’s what’s behind it:

  • The oxygen sensor itself-especially if it’s clocked a lot of miles or is original to the car
  • Problems with the sensor’s heater circuit (these sensors need to get nice and hot to do their job right)
  • Issues with the wiring or connector-think frayed wires, broken plugs, or green fuzz from corrosion
  • Exhaust leaks near the sensor, which suck in outside air and mess up oxygen readings
  • Lean fuel mixture-basically, the engine’s running with too much air and not enough gas
  • Every once in a blue moon, out-of-date PCM software is the root, but that’s rare in my experience

If you’re chasing this code, start with the sensor and the wiring. That’s where I find the problem most often. And just so you know, this kind of trouble pops up on plenty of brands-Ford, Toyota, Jeep, Chevrolet, you name it.

Recognizing Symptoms of the P0137 trouble code

If your car’s showing a P0137, here’s what you’ll likely spot. Honestly, in most cases, the only clue is that pesky check engine light staring up at you. You might not notice a thing in how the car drives. Occasionally, you’ll see a dip in MPG or a touch of rough running-though that’s not as common. If the issue sticks around or gets worse, you could start to notice the engine running lean. But for most folks, it’s just that warning light on the dash, and that goes for just about any make or model. So when you see P0137-on a Toyota, Jeep, Chevrolet, or anything else-the symptoms don’t change much.

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Step by Step Diagnosis for obd code P0137

When I’m tracking down a P0137, I always stick to a routine. Trust me, skipping steps leads to headaches later. Here’s my go-to process:

  • First, take a close look at the wiring and connectors for the downstream O2 sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2). Look for burnt spots, loose pins, or any green corrosion. Sometimes, just jiggling the connector will show you a bad contact.
  • Next, inspect the exhaust near the sensor for leaks. Even a pinhole can let extra air in and make the sensor think the mixture is off. It helps to have someone rev the engine while you listen and feel around the joints and welds.
  • Grab a scan tool and watch the O2 sensor’s live readings. The one after the cat should settle into a steady voltage-usually north of 0.5 volts. If it’s hanging low, under 0.4, you’ve got your smoking gun.
  • If wiring and leaks are fine, it’s time to check the sensor’s heater circuit. With a multimeter, see if the resistance is in spec. If the heater’s dead, the sensor can’t keep up and gives false readings.
  • Still stuck? Swap in a known good sensor if you can. Sometimes sensors just get lazy over time and miss the mark.
Tackle these basics before diving into anything more complicated. Nine times out of ten, the issue is right here.

dtc p0137

Avoiding Common Mistakes When Fixing the P0137 code

A classic mistake I see is folks throwing a new oxygen sensor at the problem without even glancing at the wiring or checking for leaks. That’s money down the drain if the real issue is a bad wire or a sneaky exhaust leak. Another one that trips people up-ignoring the heater circuit. If the heater’s toast, you’ll keep chasing your tail, swapping sensors for nothing. Always check for other codes, too. If you overlook the basics, you’re just asking for frustration and wasted time (not to mention parts).

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How Serious Is a P0137 Issue

Don’t let a P0137 fool you. It might not leave you stranded, but leave it too long and you’ll pay for it. I’ve seen folks ignore this one, end up with lousy gas mileage, fail emissions, or worst of all-cook their catalytic converter. And trust me, you don’t want that bill. If your engine starts running lean, things can snowball fast. So my advice? Don’t put it off. Take care of it before a small problem turns into a wallet-drainer.

Recommended Repair Process for dtc P0137

When it comes to fixing dtc P0137, here’s what’s worked for me and my customers:

  • Patch up or replace any damaged wires or connectors going to the downstream O2 sensor
  • Seal up any exhaust leaks near where the sensor sits
  • If the sensor’s dead or won’t heat up, swap it out for a quality new one-don’t cheap out on parts
  • If the engine’s running lean, sort out whatever’s causing that (vacuum leaks, fuel delivery, etc.)
  • Very rarely, you might need to update the PCM’s software-check for TSBs that fit your car, especially if you’re driving a Ford, Jeep, Toyota, or Chevrolet
Always match your parts to your car’s make and model. And don’t skip double-checking your fix before buttoning everything up. Some brands have specific bulletins for this-worth a look if you’re stumped.

Conclusion

So here’s the bottom line-when you get P0137, your PCM’s seeing low voltage from the downstream O2 sensor on Bank 1. Usually it’s a tired sensor, a wiring snag, or a leak messing with the readings. Sure, your car might seem fine for now, but leave it alone and you’re risking bigger headaches: wasted gas, failed emissions, or a fried catalytic converter. My advice? Tackle it early. Start with the simple, obvious checks, then work your way up. That’s how you keep your ride running strong and avoid those expensive surprises.

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