When you see a P0337 code pop up, it’s your car’s way of saying, “Hey, I’m having trouble reading the crankshaft!” In my years turning wrenches, I’ve learned that the crankshaft position sensor-often called the CKP sensor-is one of those small parts that can bring your whole engine to its knees if it acts up. This sensor tracks the exact position and speed of your crankshaft, feeding that info straight to the engine computer so it knows when to fire the spark and inject fuel. On modern engines, especially those that ditched distributors, the CKP sensor is absolutely vital for proper timing and smooth running. If the computer isn’t getting a clear signal from the sensor, your engine might not run right-or sometimes, not run at all. Besides, this little guy also helps the computer catch misfires and keep tabs on RPMs, so it’s a crucial link in the chain.
DTC P0337
4482
6 minutes of readingCauses Related to OBD2 Code P0337
From experience, the most common culprit for a P0337 code is a faulty crankshaft position sensor itself. That’s the part that usually gives up first. But I’ve also seen wiring issues-like frayed wires, loose connectors, or corrosion-cause this code. Sometimes, the problem is deeper, like a damaged tone ring (the part the sensor reads off of), or in rare cases, a faulty powertrain control module (PCM). Here’s what I usually find behind this code:
- Bad crankshaft position sensor
- Broken, shorted, or corroded wiring/connectors in the sensor circuit
- Damaged or missing tone ring on the crankshaft
- Faulty PCM (not common, but possible)
Symptoms When Experiencing the P0337 Code
If you’re dealing with a P0337, the signs usually aren’t subtle. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve seen an engine crank and crank but never actually start-almost like it’s trying its best, but something’s holding it back. If it does manage to fire up, you might notice it running rough, stumbling, or just feeling weak when you hit the gas. I’ve even seen fuel economy tank when this code is lurking in the background. Worst case? The engine might stall out of nowhere, which is downright dangerous. So if your ride is showing any of these symptoms, don’t wait-get it checked out before you end up stuck in a parking lot or, worse, the side of the road.
Diagnosis Steps for OBD Code P0337
Whenever I’m tracking down a P0337, I always start simple. Pop the hood and take a close look at the wiring and connector on the crankshaft position sensor. Check for obvious stuff: broken wires, loose plugs, or greenish corrosion on the terminals. Here’s a pro-tip from the garage-have a buddy crank the engine while you gently wiggle the connector. Sometimes, just moving it will make the code flicker on and off, pointing straight to a bad connection. Next, I grab my multimeter and check the sensor’s resistance (the spec should be in your service manual). If both the wiring and sensor seem solid, don’t forget about the tone ring. I’ve seen everything from mud to metal shavings mess up the signal-sometimes the ring’s teeth are damaged or even missing. For a deeper dive, I’ll connect a scan tool and watch for a crank signal while cranking the engine. If there’s still no signal after all this, only then do I start suspecting the PCM, but that’s rare. And here’s another tip-scan for related codes. They can save you a lot of head-scratching.
Common Mistakes When Addressing P0337
A classic mistake I see is folks rushing straight to swap out the crankshaft sensor without checking the wiring or connector first. More often than you’d think, it’s just a loose plug or corroded pins causing all the grief. Another one? Skipping the tone ring inspection-if it’s cracked or has missing teeth, a shiny new sensor won’t do a thing. And always, always clear the code and take the car for a test drive after fixing anything. If you skip this step, you might chase your tail thinking the problem’s still there. Rushing or guessing your way through this repair? That’s a quick way to waste both time and money.
Seriousness of dtc P0337
I can’t stress this enough-don’t shrug off a P0337. If your car won’t start, you’re not going anywhere until it’s fixed. Even if it runs, you’re risking sudden stalling in traffic, which is no joke. Driving around with a bum CKP sensor can also lead to misfires, and over time, that can cook your catalytic converter or damage other engine parts. Things can go downhill fast if you ignore this, so I always tell folks: handle it right away and save yourself a world of trouble.
Repair Solutions for P0337 Engine Code
Most of the time, you’ll solve P0337 by swapping out the crankshaft position sensor-just make sure you’re using the right, high-quality part for your ride. If the wiring or connector is chewed up or corroded, fix or replace it properly; don’t just slap on some tape and call it good. If the tone ring is the culprit, it’ll need to be cleaned, repaired, or replaced-it’s that simple. Only after you’ve checked all these should you even think about the PCM, and honestly, it’s almost never the problem. Once you’re done, clear the code and take it for a good test drive to make sure you nailed it before buttoning things up.
Conclusion
So here’s the bottom line: a P0337 code means your engine computer isn’t hearing from the crankshaft position sensor like it should, which can leave you stranded or make your car run rough. Usually, it comes down to a bad sensor or a wiring issue, and letting it slide only increases your chances of a breakdown or bigger repairs. The smart move? Start with a thorough look at the sensor, wiring, and tone ring, and replace what’s faulty. Tackle it sooner rather than later, and you’ll have your car running smooth before you know it.
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